Weekend in Paris #9
Je t'aime comme un chien! đ¶ đ
Weekend in Paris is a bonus series for paid subscribersâitâs one part recap of my off-duty fun as a baking school student, one part dishing about (temporary) expat life. This post is now unlocked for all readers to enjoy. Bienvenue!
Shopping isnât high on my list of hobbies, but after two months of living near the iconic department store Le Bon MarchĂ©, I figured it was time to step inside.
For the past few weeks, the storeâs exterior had been plastered with the words âJE TâAIME COMME UN CHIENââI love you like a dog, which is to say unconditionally and without reservationâas well as a gigantic photo of an Australian shepherd. It was time to figure out why!
Inside, I found that the escalators had been transformed into enormous dog bones; across the atrium, dog-shaped cardboard cutouts watched the bones with rapt attention (and swayed in unison like adorable metronomes). A special section of the store sold all kinds of design-forward products that featured or were meant for dogs.
Apparently, the splashy display was for an excellent cause: an organization called Gamelles Pleines, which helps homeless and isolated citizens care for their pets.
Iâve lived here for eight weeks now, but Iâve still barely scratched the surface of lovely surprises like this one. And in todayâs letter, youâll find two other hidden gems I discovered this weekend:
đž An urban oasis for peaceful reflection, and
đ The cityâs most awe-inspiring reading room.
Saturday promised to be 75 degrees Fahrenheit and sunny, and with the cherry blossoms blossoming, it was the ideal day to spend in a parkâpreferably one with lots of flowering trees. I took the Metro 10 line all the way to the end, to Boulogne-Billancourt and the MusĂ©e Albert-Kahn.
Under normal circumstances, you wouldnât visit a museum if you were looking to enjoy the fresh air, but the MusĂ©e Albert-Kahn is a unique place.
Albert Kahn was a banker whose world travels inspired him to deploy his wealth in two unusual ways: by commissioning a global photography project called the Archives of the Planet, and by turning his four-hectare estate into an urban oasis with several distinct styles, from English and Japanese gardens to a tree-lined path inspired by the Vosges forest.
Iâve loved almost every aspect of city life in Paris, but until I spent an afternoon reading on various park benches throughout the MusĂ©e Albert-Kahnâs gardens, I didnât realize how much Iâd missed nature: birdsong, the fluttering pink flowers of the sakuras, and even the fat, lazy koi drifting through the zen gardenâs pond.
There are plenty of green spaces dotted throughout central Parisâparks and public squares were a big part of Baron Haussmanâs mandate, after allâbut I relished this off-the-beaten-path destination so much that Iâm planning a return visit.
On Sunday, I had to get down to work.
The first draft of our creativity project was coming due: two original recipes, an ingredient list, and a breakdown of our workflow and planned timeline. My own documents still had quite a few details missing.
Feeling cooped up in my tiny apartment and uninspired by its lack of natural light, I decided to find a better place to work. Enter: the BibliothĂšque Nationale de France Ă Richelieu.
As I stuffed my laptop into my backpack and tried to figure out which bus line would get me there, I almost abandoned my plans; it certainly wouldâve been easier to stay home. That nagging thought persisted as I went through security, and even as entered the gorgeous Salle Ovale reading room, as it seemed that every other student in Paris had the same idea. Every open desk and chair was already claimed.
But after a minute or two of patience, I snagged a perch, and my next two hours of work were vastly more focused and efficient than four wouldâve been at home. (I chalk it up to the extremely inspirational domed ceiling.) With each passing minute in this gorgeous space, I became even happier that Iâd made the effort.
The next time I have a school or writing project to work onâor the next time I want to curl up with a novel on a rainy day!âyouâll find me tucked into one of these cozy red chairs, basking in sunlight thatâs been filtered gently through stained glass.
And with that, itâs back to the (fabulous) grind. Iâll be back with another baking school recap on Friday!
Warmly,
Maddie
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Loving your adventures, Maddie. And I've finally written out the conversion math for C to F, so I can know *exactly* what the temperature of the tarmac is during an F1 grand prix. LOL. It's important for tyre wear. But, from the GBBS and my new delight in matcha, I know that 80C is 175F and 160C is 350F; everything else requires ugly math. So glad you've done this for yourself, sis. xo
We missed you for the Seder, but clearly you had a lovely and productive weekend!