A postcard from the Sunshine Coast

Shh! It’s British Columbia’s best-kept secret.

On The Cusp is about becoming the next version of ourselves. That means experimenting with the breadth of our interests, exploring the depths of anything that captures our imagination, and learning to embrace uncertainty along the way.

Welcome! This is letter #55.

Peak Airbnb views, captured on Kodak Portra 400 film

When I told my Washington friends that I was visiting British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast, they all responded with cocked heads and quizzical looks—but not because they were dubious of my vacation destination. They had simply never heard of it!

After a week spent hiking, breaking bread, and chatting with residents and visitors of the Coast, it became clear that Canadians, at least, were in the know about this little slice of paradise. (Smart people!)

As for everyone else? Well, enjoy today’s postcard from my new favorite place. It just might become yours, too.

This stretch of mainland is peppered with so many mountains and waterways that it’s only accessible by floatplane or ferry.

It’s divided into two sections: the Southern Sunshine Coast (easily accessible by a 40-minute ferry ride from Vancouver’s Horseshoe Bay terminal) and the Northern Sunshine Coast (the more remote section, requiring two ferries separated by a fifty-mile drive on Highway 101).

Mural map of the Southern Coast

I spent a week exploring the Southern Coast, which is most vibrant near the southern port of Langdale, and grows progressively quieter (though not less beautiful) approaching the northern port of Earl’s Cove.

I was glad we chose to stay in centrally-located Sechelt, half an hour from the southern port; it had plenty of amenities and served as the perfect launch pad for adventures up and down the Southern Coast.

No matter where we went, though, people were friendly. We immediately bonded with four retirees during our first lunch in Gibsons; that same night, the sequin blazer-clad host at Batch 44 Brewery and Kitchen invited all trivia night attendees to his upcoming wedding.

View from the top of Soames Hill

We started each day with a little hike: taking in the rugged coastline at Smuggler’s Cove, getting a bird’s-eye view of the coastline from atop Soames Hill, listening to the crash of water over rocks at Homesite Falls, and exploring the world’s best-marked trail network at Hidden Grove. We ventured north to the Skookumchuck Narrows to watch the whitewater rapids that form twice each day when the tide changes, and enjoyed views of Sechelt Inlet from Porpoise Bay Provincial Park.

But perhaps the week’s biggest adventure happened at Coast Gravity Park, where we tried our hand at downhill mountain biking.

Reader: this was squarely outside my comfort zone!

I only made it down once via the easiest trail before quitting while I was ahead; frankly, I couldn’t believe that I’d escaped bodily harm. I was proud of myself, though, for getting on a bus full of (lovely, encouraging) adrenaline-junkie dudes and giving the sport my best college try.

Scenes from Smuggler’s Cove

One reason we did so much hiking: so that we were extra-hungry by the time the next meal rolled around, whether that meant a warm biscuit slathered in blueberry butter at the Basted Baker, poke at the Wobbly Canoe, prawn tacos and esquites at Lunitas Mexican Eatery, smash burgers at PKLS, scoops of strawberry and mint chip at e.b.’s Ice Cream, or even Canadian McDonald’s treats like McShaker fries—advertised everywhere, so we simply had to try them. (The masala version was amazing! I was too skeptical to try the churro fries.)

When we weren’t hiking or eating, we were finding lots of different ways to relax, most of which didn’t require leaving our waterfront Airbnb.

We watched a mother duck corral her eleven—eleven!—ducklings, and mother and father geese parenting their four goslings. We read under blankets on the porch, watching the sky and ocean change with the weather, tides, and time of day: water sparkling like diamonds under the midday sun, then undulating at sunset.

(Less relaxing? As soon as we started leaving the windows open at night, the sound of lapping waves gave me tsunami-related dreams.)

We also took long, unhurried drives, following signs for various stops along the Purple Banner Tour, which celebrates Coast artists and artisans, and stumbling upon ripped-from-the-headlines dramas like Sechelt’s Sinkhole Village.

Every morning began with coffee at Gourmet Girl. Special mornings started with their breakfast bowl: poached eggs, hash browns, greens, avocado, black beans and crumbled queso fresco.

On the morning of our early ferry ride home, Gibson’s Beachcomber Coffee was open for business, slinging top-notch coffee and apple fritters.

I had a fabulous virgin paloma at Lunitas, but for those who imbibe, the brewery scene on the Coast is also excellent.

Highlights include Sunday rosé cider, Persephone Brewing Company—it’s located on a farm, which meant the standout lager and juicy burger were both nearly overshadowed by the just-picked side salad topped with crispy chickpeas—and meeting Pepper the cidery cat at The Bricker Cider Company.

Our arrival coincided with the Gibsons Landing Jazz Festival, so we had to take in a show at Tapworks Brewing Company. I can’t imagine a better evening than watching locals dance to “Light My Fire” as the sun sets over the harbor behind them.

Skookumchuck Narrows at high tide

I can’t wait for our return visit, which I’ve already started fantasizing about: finally getting to visit the Northern Coast (including Nancy’s Bakery near the end of Highway 101 in Lund, a day trip to Savary Island, maybe a walk along the Sunshine Coast Trail), kayaking the Sechelt Inlet, cross-country skiing at Dakota Ridge, seeing the sandy cliffs of Thormanby Island, and taking a boat into the heart of Princess Louisa Inlet.

Are you following along with my year of pizza on YouTube? Here’s the latest installment of the In Depth Cookbook Club! ⬇️

Step into my kitchen, where I’m making the Classic Margherita Pizza (p. 231) and the Spring Chopped Salad with Edamame, Snap Peas, Endive, and Asparagus (p. 232) from

Alexandra Stafford

’s wonderful cookbook Pizza Night.¹

As always, I’d love to hear from you. What’s your favorite under-the-radar travel destination?

Warmly,
Maddie

1. If you buy Pizza Night through my Bookshop.org affiliate link, you’ll be supporting this video series! That’s because each purchase made through the link earns me a small commission. All opinions are honest and entirely my own, regardless of affiliation.